Of the many components of a bike, the crankset is arguably one of the most essential. It helps in the conversion of the rider’s legs’ interchanging motion into a rotational one. The bike’s crank needs to be present to drive the rear wheel and the chain (or belt). The bike’s crank has the chainrings, which are also known as the sprockets. These sprockets are connected to the cranks or arms along with the pedals.
For you to get an enjoyably smooth ride, you need to pay particular attention to the crank’s function. The bike’s mechanical problems and failures can be averted only if you regularly service the bike. This means that a functioning bike crank will lead to improved performance. This info guide will give you the best information regarding removing a bike’s crank without using a puller.
The ‘Get’ Steps Themselves
Step Zero: Don’t Think About the Puller
Many cyclists use crank pullers to remove the bike’s crank. It is a tool that has a series of bolts and nuts that drags the cranks for an axle that is engaged. The cranks and bolts are mostly constructed using aluminum so that the bike is most stable and performs lightly.
While a puller will make the job easy, this section is not all about that. Let’s see how you can remove the crankset if a puller is not around.
Step One: Get Your Hands (the puller of the day) Cleaned
This first step calls on you to pay special attention to your hands’ safety. This will ensure that you don’t incur any injuries, especially those that would warrant medical attention. In that case, you should get a reliable pair of reliable work gloves that will give you maximum protection.
When you wear them and feel like you are ready, you can start the job. Ensure that you shift your bicycle’s towards the larger cogwheel. This will ensure that your hands and arms remain protected. Ensure that the adjacent area does not have lots of stuff, such as oil or liquid, as these can come down on you when your hand snaps.
Step Two: Get the Bolts or Nuts Removed
For the crankset’s loosening to happen, you need to get the nuts or bolts removed. This will ensure that the crank removal process happens with little hassle. When that happens, get the nuts or bolts turned in counter-clockwise style. Everything you do needs to proceed slowly to prevent the chain from jumping off and hurting your hands. In the underneath bolt, you are likely to find dust caps that should remove them.
Additionally, get the filaments snooped out. Alternatively, you can thread a bolt to eradicate them, that is, based on your bicycle’s crank arm. Before removing it, ensure that you pay attention to the crank type.
Step Three: Get the Crank Washers Removed
The washers will be available on the bike’s crankset, and those are the ones that need removing. If you do not know what washers are, look for the middle-holed metallic discs. You will find them under the bolts and thread nuts. They are items that back the wheels’ movement in a particular direction but with the assistance of the lever’s pointed curve. You can use a suitable spanner or a bolt to remove the washers.
Step Four: Get the Crank’s Bolt Inspected
What follows washers’ removal is a thorough and complete inspection of the crank’s bolts. Get an excellent tool to help you remove the arm and the crank’s bolts. If you want to remove an M8 crankset bolt, use CCP-22 or CWP-7 or any that has a tiny and thin tip. You may be required to use CPP-44 or CWP-7 if you are dealing with M12 together with M14 bolts, but that may not be the case.
Step Five: Get the Threaded Puller Turned
Start turning the puller’s threaded coupler with gentleness, well, until you get to feel the bolt and fitting tool hex sticking out. Ensure that the puller does not cross the filament. This will help to prevent any kind of damage on the surface. Make sure that you engage a 22mm completely to make the threading direct. To manage this step efficiently, you should either use a spanner or a screwdriver.
Step Six: Get the Spindler Threaded
Thread spindle driver of the puller in the arms of the crank. This should happen after you turn the coupler entirely. This task should be carefully managed since you will be utilizing your arm’s raw power, and even a slight moment of carelessness could get you hurt.
Then, insert a spindle drive directly into a slot that has been designated. Then, turn the spindle into an anticlockwise route. This will make the cranks to be fully taut. Ensure you test how to taut the crank several times, as this will help you know if it is loose or not. Have it in mind that a flexible driver may get the cranks’ arms damaged, and other components may become loose.
Step Seven: Get the Spindle Moved
Now is an excellent time to get the shaft turning clockwise, that is, after you already have tightened it completely. Then, ensure that each crank arm is disengaged completely. You should know that this step should be done with no rush at all. Doing things slowly will ensure that you don’t injure yourself and that your crankset (square taper), bolt, and thread do not get damaged.
Step Eight: Get the Crank System Unthreaded
This last step needs you to disentangle the cranks from the arm puller crank tool. The unthreading should be done slowly since the knuckles might hit the crank’s sides. Then, repeat this step on the cranks that are remaining. Now, get your bike tested to know if the components are operating correctly, especially the crank arm.
In and Around the Crankset
Since you know how to take out a bike’s crank without a puller, it would be best to get some tips in and out of the crankset. This section will bring attention to some problems that you are likely to encounter with your crankset. To make things easier, you will get some maintenance tips to handle the issues.
Problem One: The Entire Thing May Be Moving and Shaking
When you notice the whole of the crankset moving during an inspection, you need to pay special attention to it. The main toast will be the BB, and you will now need to work on the cup or ring (the retaining one) as they may become very loose. If you find the axle spinning without hydraulic resistance or so seam, you need to correct it.
If you are using the cup-and-cone type of bracket, you can try removing it by way of an overhaul. It would help if you got the lock ring removed, which you will find located on the left side. You can execute that task using a specific locking-spanner tool. To eliminate it, turn the flexible and twistable cup in an anticlockwise direction. If you look at it all, you realize that having a spanner is essential. As you do the replacement or fixing, get the axle, bearing, and dust sleeve removed. Ensure that all the components are swapped, then grease them again before getting them reinstalled.
Problem Two: The Axle is Having Cranks
Carefully checking if the axle has cranks is vital since it can reveal a costly problem. To snug up the cranks, you will require a reliable hex wrench. Before you fix anything, you need to ensure that any particular installation and the thin-wallet socket are arranged depending on the specific crank’s arm type. Before you select the hex wrench or tool, be sure to check the type of crank arm.
When you find that the axle and crank arm is bent or deformed, you need to replace the crank’s arms as soon as possible. Get a 5mm wrench and snug up the bolts of the chainring. Check the chain ring’s teeth to see if they are worn out or bent.
If you want to improve your chain’s longevity, you should get special pivot bikes with inner gears. These internal gears will ensure that your chain is protected from dust, mud, and damage. Here are some take-home points for this problem:
- With every month that passes and after every three rides, get the crank’s bolts checked.
- Chainring evaluation needs to be done after 1000 miles of cycling.
- The BB slop should be evaluated each month.
Problem Three: The Cranks are a Little Too Noisy
This problem is common with MTBs, and the noise is usually coming from crank arms. This may sometimes make it very challenging for a rider to even move the bike. Your bike’s pedal may become loose, but you can fix the problem with some clay.
Also, fixing the issue can happen by a simple cleaning of the arms of the cranks. While the noises may not be detrimental for you as a rider, they may vex you. In that case, you may need to make it clean and tighten it.
Problem Four: The Chain Has Gotten Stuck
Many times, you may be pedaling, and the chain gets stuck. It may lock up over the chain ring’s top or jam. What you need to do is routine checks that establish if the chainrings are wearing out or not. If there are bent or worn out links, you should work on immediately replacing them.
If the bike’s chain is both rusty and stiff, you can either lube it or get it replaced. Avoid using extra amounts of lubricant as they can make dust to build up. You should rest easy if the rings and chain look okay.
If there are sounds of chain slipping or scrunching, you are likely to experience pedaling jerks. A hard pedal is bad during cycling since it can make you lose focus and get into an accident. Also, a hard pedal may make the chainrings worn out. If you see a problematic ring worn out, replace it. All bent links on the chain should be removed because they pose a significant danger to you.
